When we received the Oliver + S, Garden Party Dress, discussions ensued: Would a smocked option really work with this pattern? How would the construction {note: not our strongest suit with smocked garments} be once it was smocked? So, after a few emails back and forth with Liesl, we decided that we would take the challenge and smock the Garden Party Dress.

We cut the front skirt 9.5″ off the fold {adding 19″ in width to that pattern piece}. Typically, yoke to smocked skirt ratios are a little greater than 4:1. Our “jedi master”, who pleats garments for us, recommended using the entire width of 45″ fabric {which we came close to doing}.

Next,  draw the waistband on the pre-pleated dress – ensuring that the pleats extend well past the area that needs to be smocked. 

Pleat past the area you want to smock – this will help the pleats and gathers lay smoothly underneath the waistband. **Technically, we didn’t pleat down as far as we should have and think the gathers would have laid better, had we done this.**

*Note: the waistband could be redrawn without the curve if needed, based on the smocking plate. Or, you could smock and not add the waistband for a completely different “look” to the Garden Party Dress.

For this garment, we tried a new smocking technique for us: the pintuck smocking variation {Sew Beautiful, February/March 2014 p. 49-51}. It took some getting used to…somewhat smocking in columns, instead of rows…but we really liked the texture it gave to the front skirt when it was completed. 

This smocking plate seemed to really accentuate the curve of the front waistband, and we were pleased with learning a new technique in the process.

Besides the smocking modification, we added eyelet lace to sleeves instead of hemming them. To do this, we cut off 3/8″ along capped area before adding eyelet lace.

The dress was lengthened as well. We added a 2.5″ band at the base of the skirt. Length was added to create a fancier version of this pattern, as well as increasing the time frame EA could wear it. A win for us!!

*Note: it would have been much easier to just add length to the skirt pattern piece…not create a band….but, we failed to think through that aspect before cutting. Still, when it was said and done, the change of stripe direction added a little interest at the hem and it matched the waistband!

Holding the skirt in what some might consider a “partial curtsy”…over and over and over again!

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