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Sep
9

29 Comments

Oliver + S: Playtime Tunic and Leggings {fall pattern preview}


I realize most of you have been on ‘pins and needles’ anticipating how my first date with Mr. Knit went. Oh, you haven’t? Well, I am going to bend your ear anyway.
I can sum it up in five simple words, “It’s not you, it’s me”.
Good thing my first date with Mr. Knit began with the Oliver and S, Playtime Tunic and Leggings. It was “love at first sight”… and Oliver and S was there to ‘hold my hand’ through the experience!
Let’s rewind to the beginning of the year, where I proclaimed I wanted to learn to sew with knits as one of our ReSEWlutions. I promptly signed up for a Whipstitch, sewing with knits class, and ‘took’ the class…but didn’t attend any of the labs. Okay, basically, I didn’t sew a single stitch. FAIL. 
Great class, but even better if you chose to actually be involved. Maybe it was the fact that children’s clothing motivates me, sewing for myself didn’t. However, I NEEDED the techniques and practice to sew comfy knit clothing for the nieces.
Obviously, I had a bumpy ride with Mr. Knit, but really…what can you expect from a first date?? While the leggings are far from perfect, they came together VERY easily {largely in part to the thorough, explicit instructions of Oliver and S}. The leggings use only one pattern piece and were an excellent fit for EA. We chose to sew a 2T with 3T length. 
The Oliver and S, Playtime pattern includes leggings, as well as tunic and dress options. There are two options for length, and two options for fabric – woven OR non-woven on the tunic/dress. Then, you have your finishing touches of pockets, topstitching details, and/or a faux peter pan collar! 
Which, of course, means your possibilities are practically endless. When I say it was difficult to “go out” with Mr. Knit, instead of Mr. Woven, that would be an understatement, but, I NEEDED to give Mr. Knit a chance and this was a prime opportunity to give him a whirl…or should that be twirl? 
So, we plowed ahead. Quite literally at times, it was a ‘dirty mess’ of things on the inside of my garment. On the outside however, the “date” appeared as though it were smooth sailing – or at the very least, sufficient. We chose to sew the 2T tunic with 3T length (although the 2T length would have been sufficient).
 
Specifications:
2T, lengthened to a 3T {both for the tunic and leggings}
fabrics: Brown Blue Tree Leaves {tunic: Girl Charlee} and matching legging fabric {Joanns}
Now, if I could solicit a bit of knit sewing help from all you knit lovers out there, I’d appreciate it! Let me preface this with I think I have the appropriate tools (ball point pins, twin needle, walking foot, jersey needle) and put them to good use. 
I have two specific questions, but any additional pointers and tricks you want to send my way would be greatly appreciated and taken to heart! First, when using the stretch stitch, what settings do you use as far as length, width, and tension? Secondly, when using your twin needle (which I really liked), what stitch length and tension do you set your machine on? Any other suggestions? I’m begging you to send them our way!
So do I foresee a second date with Mr. Knit in my future? Gulp. Yes. Maybe next time I’ll ask Mr. Serger to chaperone us {yet another ReSEWlution}. Hopefully one day this will read, “And they all lived happily ever after…”
EA wouldn’t have it any other way! She was living in the lap of luxury / comfort…
even with the sweltering heat of summer surrounding her!
 
**Please note: The Oliver and S, Playtime Tunic and Leggings was given to us, but {as always}everything written is our honest opinions. 



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29 Comments



Cindy
5 yearss ago


The outfit is lovely! Perfect play clothes!

As to your ?’s…
First, when using the stretch stitch, what settings do you use as far as length, width, and tension? When I use the stretch stitch, the length is 2.5, width is 2.0. And I put my presser foot is set at a 2. Honestly, I don’t use that stich very much. I have a seam/overlock stitch on my machine and I prefer to use that.

Secondly, when using your twin needle (which I really liked), what stitch length and tension do you set your machine on? I lengthen the stitch to a 3 or even a 3.5. And I use wooly nylon thread in the bobbin. I will still occasionaly get popped stitches but not that often.

Any other suggestions?
I haven’t used a walking foot for knit sewing in years. I figured out that by lessening the downward pressure of my presser foot eliminated the need for it. I’d take a look (if you haven’t already!) in the sewing machine manual for your machine and see what it says about sewing with knits. Mine had some suggestions for stitches (the seam/overlock) that I had never heard of. It took some playing around to find exactly what worked best for me on my machine…and I do things a little differently when I sew knits on my mom’s machine.

Good Luck!

(Reply)

    Frances Suzanne
    5 yearss ago


    WOW – you are a plethora of information! I may need to email you to follow up on all of this once I absorb it a bit. On my stretch stitch I used 4.0 (length) and 1.0 (width) – first date; 3.0 (length) and 1.0 (width) – second date (MUCH better). Pressure foot on 4-5. Obviously I need to lessen that, several folks mentioned that. I would like to see what the seam/overlock stitch looks like – maybe I’m fortunate enough to have one of those! Now, perfecting use of it might be another story :)!

    Twin needle – I set my settings at the standard 2.5 length, but again, I feel like I need to increase this, as many of you as referenced this. Wooly nylon? I THINK that was mentioned in the class :). I’ll definitely check the manual. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! for taking the time to write all this out. I truly appreciate it!

    (Reply)

Renee
5 yearss ago


Love the look! As for stitch settings – I don’t change them much from what the machine has preset. Though if the knit is super thin and buttery I increase the stitch length so my machine doesn’t eat it – and some use wonder tape for stabilizing.

(Reply)

    Frances Suzanne
    5 yearss ago


    Sounds like I definitely need to lengthen my stitches. The fabric used for the top was pretty thin. I have never used wonder tape, but sounds like a good idea! THANK YOU for your help!

    (Reply)

nest full of eggs
5 yearss ago


As for knits I have only sewn 2 long sleeve t-shirts and 1 pair of leggings and they weren’t very successful (sorry I don’t have any advice), so I was not brave enough to sew this one up in knits.
But you were brave enough and from the looks of it, I’d say that yours was a success with knit fabrics!
And your model always seems to be so cooperative (that 2nd to last photo where she’s tilting her head is so adorable!)

(Reply)

    Frances Suzanne
    5 yearss ago


    I admit it, my jaw about hit the floor when I read this. Basically, I don’t believe you :). I was able to SKIM your post early this morning and thought you’d done the pattern out of knits. Then, I saw the inside picture of your garment and I was absolutely astounded thinking you used knits. Okay, I was astounded at how neat that was either way – woven or knit :). GORGEOUS!!! *So far, so good on the modeling; we’ve actually only bribed once and that was for 3 mini-M&Ms. I think it helps that we are the ‘aunties’, and we just talk to her.

    (Reply)

Olga Becker @ Kid Approved
5 yearss ago


The outfit is adorable. I sew with knits quite a bit, and it can be a love/hate relationship, depending on type of knit fabric I use. The best thing I’ve ever done when sewing with knits is using Stitch-and-Tear stabilizer.This stuff here http://www.theribbonretreat.com/FabricProducts/2302-stitch-n-tear.aspx You will never ever have any puckering, everythign would look perfect. :) That stuff is magic. Tissue paper also works well, especially during hemming. I lengthen my stitch a little bit (2.7 or so) while using a double needle. I also decrease tension to about 3. I never use a walking foot simply because it is so expensive for my machine and I never fetl the need to. That’s my two cents on sewing with knits. :) Overall, I think I prefer sewing with knits rather than wovens. It is so much more forgiving.

(Reply)

    Frances Suzanne
    5 yearss ago


    Thank you for your advice, Olga! I have never used Stitch-N-Tear (and thanks for the link). Several of you mentioned lengthening your stitch and decreasing your tension – neither of which I did :(. I’m going to win . . .eventually. . .I can’t wait to give all this advice a try!

    (Reply)

sewVery
5 yearss ago


I’m still fairly new to sewing with knits, but I would definitely encourage you to use your serger as much as possible! I’ve made entire dresses and tops where I only used my regular machine to hem them with my double needle (which I use a stitch length of 3 or 3.5, but I may have to try Cindy’s suggestion of wooly nylon in the bobbin next time). When you do use your serger though, adjust the differential so you get a smooth seam, and depending on the thickness of the knit, you might have to adjust the tension settings, but normally I don’t. Good luck with future dates with Mr. Knit! I know you’ll do great!

(Reply)

    Frances Suzanne
    5 yearss ago


    Ohhh. . .serger advice. . . I need that too, it is on our reSEWlutions list, and I don’t think I’ve even turned on my serger in 2013. Thank you for your advice, and I hope you had a good weekend!

    (Reply)

sisforsewing
5 yearss ago


I wouldn’t dare giving you any knit advise (you seem to be doing quite well), but I will be following any further developments on this topic (definitely need to know more about it, lol).
I use a woven-fabric for my version (I love it) but your knit version is just dreamy (love the colors): perfect for playtime anywhere.
Gorgeous, as usual :-)

(Reply)

    Frances Suzanne
    5 yearss ago


    The woven version is definitely on our to do list! It was VERY painful to choose knit over all the gorgeous woven fabrics at JoAnns, but we MADE ourselves purchase knits. I guess it was one of these ‘now or never’ sort of things. We loved your version! So many options, so little time. . .

    (Reply)

Meghan
5 yearss ago


I think your date with Mr. Knit went really well! The outfit is adorable! I really think I need to get this pattern after seeing so many cute versions all over blogland today! I wish I had some advice for you as far a sewing with knits go….I’ve sewn a few knit items but I’m still not completely comfortable doing it!

(Reply)

    Frances Suzanne
    5 yearss ago


    Thank you, Meghan! You definitely need the pattern :). . .

    (Reply)

sallyavena
5 yearss ago


Wow are you guys on a role! 3 outfits in so little time! And your first ‘date’ with knits is amazing…I think mine probably ended up in the trash. That being said, I do love sewing with knits now. Be forewarned…all knits are not equal so always give each a test run before sewing on the actual garment, just to make sure all is right.

(Reply)

    Frances Suzanne
    5 yearss ago


    Well, we practically didn’t get any sewing done in August, so we are making up for lost time :). I am looking forward to sewing something up with the stash (aka ‘happy mail’) you sent our way! Practice, practice, practice – and right now, I’m envisioning a bunch of leggings and raglan tees! I just need very, very basic.

    (Reply)

Chelsea B.
5 yearss ago


You did awesome for your first date with “Mr. Knit”. And I couldn’t help but laugh! I took a “break” from Mr. Knit years ago and just start up again in the last few years. My best friend is for sure my double needle.

PS I love the fabric!

(Reply)

    Frances Suzanne
    5 yearss ago


    Ha! I think the double needle might just be ‘my hero’!

    (Reply)

Charity
5 yearss ago


Adorable outfit! I love the fabric you chose. =) I don’t really have many knit tips… I’ve sewn with knits often enough, but I’m usually not quite satisfied with how they come out. One thing that I did find to help a lot is to use a really heavy duty spray starch on all the edges of the pieces before sewing. It really helps reduce waving and curling. I don’t need it when serging though. That, and double needles work best for me with a slightly longer length than I normally use, probably about a 3. My machine has a setting just for double needles, so I haven’t had to change the tension.

(Reply)

    Frances Suzanne
    5 yearss ago


    I’ve already put your suggestion of using heavy duty starch to good use tonight! It definitely made a difference with the curling, as well as, the stability. I have not tried lengthening my stitch, but several have mentioned incorporating that technique! Practice (and a few new techniques) makes perfect, right?!

    (Reply)

Toni Barsi
5 yearss ago


I think you did a lovely job for your first go round! I don’t do too much with knit, (and I know for sure that I never use anything other than a straight stitch :-o) but I definitely love my walking foot and my serger. Can’t wait to see what you choose for you “second date”!

(Reply)

    Frances Suzanne
    5 yearss ago


    Hmmmm. . .serger. I may need to pick your brain about that :). Actually, we are on our second date now, so time will tell if he’s a keeper!!

    (Reply)

Emily
5 yearss ago


Lovely! Great job with your first knits!

(Reply)

Lightning McStitch
5 yearss ago


This outfit looks great, for a first date I’d say you went a fair way!
I use my overlocker exclusively now for knit sewing and just use the sewing machine for hemming. Like Cindy I hardly use the walking foot (too lazy to swap it in I guess) and have just discovered woolly nylon for the bobbin thread when doing double needle hems. The other thing I do with the double needle is increase the needle tension all the way so the bobbin thread really does zig zag.
My sewing machine knit stitch reminds me of the cha-cha-cha. Forward a bit, back a bit, out to the side. Repeat. I’ve no idea what stitch width or length sorry.
You know what’s really awesome about getting heavy with Mr knit? No ironing kid’s clothes!

(Reply)

Sabra at Sew a Straight Line
5 yearss ago


cute cute cute!

(Reply)

carin van den berg
5 yearss ago


very nice job. I love the top fabric. She looks very happy with it!!!

(Reply)

Frances Suzanne
5 yearss ago


Thank you all for the amazing suggestions / hints in regards to sewing with knits. We’ve already made a few adjustments per your comments, and hope to have a long, happy relationship with Mr. Knit!

(Reply)

Shaffer Sisters
5 yearss ago


Two phone conversations that I will summarize here, because they will A. Make you smile or B. bring you comfort. First convo: when I was reading this I was on the phone with Jo and we were both laughing. It seems so strange that you ladies who smock and do french knots like crazy are scared by mister knit.
Second convo: I was talking to my mom the other day about sewing with knits verses woven. We both agreed we love the speed in which a knit project comes together but hate the cutting, pinning and sewing. And they really can get wonky sometimes. Wovens do as they are told but take so long. I try and embrace the positive of the fabric type depending on the project.
I like starting with a small zig zag stitch when I am worried about a knit shifting weird. Then I run it through the serger and cut off the excess. The best tip (from CINO) that I have learned recently if you have a wonky seem just press the wonkiness right out of it. My last 3 knit project have been my favorite to date and I did that with all of them. Make it and Love it has great tips for sewing with knits, I think she wrote a whole post on double needles. Which is actually the site that helped me get over my fear of knits.
I love using the serger for knit, because it moves fast but I feel like this isn’t good for all knits (light weight ones seem to go in uneven and little areas are hard)this is where I use a zig zag on the sewing machine.
Good Luck! I see in your future a relationship that will grow and mature. It might take some time and some extra work but I know you gals can do it. You did like 10,000 french knots on that Valentine’s Day outfit. You got it in the bag!
With Love,
Scary

(Reply)

    Frances Suzanne
    5 yearss ago


    Thanks for the encouragement, advice, and a good laugh!!

    (Reply)


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