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Jul
18

17 Comments

July “Flip this Pattern”: Flipped Creation Three


Catherine, from cathgrace, is here to give you her “Flipped Creation”
for the Oliver and S, Roller Skate Dress / Tunic.
********************************************************************************
Hi everyone! I’m really excited to be here today, and I am loving this series! (Who doesn’t love a good pattern remix?) So thanks to Ashley and Emily for inviting me to participate! I really love the look of the Oliver and S Roller Skate Dress, and have been struggling to narrow down which of my ideas to make! (I actually drew them all, and the whole family voted!) My daughter is an older girl too, so I also have to take her taste into consideration when I sew! For my Roller Skate Dress Remix, a July theme won out, and I decided to make my daughter a dress she could wear to the Freedom Fest that is held on Base here in Korea, (she’s a big believer that ALL occasions need a themed outfit.) So I give you the Shooting Star Dress.

I made my remix out of a soft red and white striped knit fabric, (the pattern recommends using woven fabrics) that I pleated and stitched on one shoulder to make a solid red section that has been appliqued with a navy and silver tulle star. It has an offset tulip style skirt that is gathered into the navy elastic waistband, and has a navy and silver star, tulle pettiskirt underneath. Since I didn’t line my dress (It’s hot here in the ROK so the less you wear the better!) I finished off the neck and sleeves by adding folded sleeve and neck bands.

The dress can also be worn without the pettiskirt, (with leggings) for a more casual look.
The pettiskirt is made from 4 layers of navy and silver star tulle; the fabric was supposed to be navy and gold stars, but the foiling was silver on the wrong side of the fabric, so I just flipped it over and used the wrong side. (Which means you get to see exciting flashes of gold every now and again as she walks.)  
I love how easy to wash and wear knit is, as you never know when you are going to need to bust a move in your dress….. 
Want to make your own version? Here’s how I made mine,
I began by sewing 5″ long pintucks in the top right of the striped fabric, I made a section wide enough to fit the whole width of the Roller Skate pattern sleeve. The pintucks were easy peasy because I just folded the white stripe in half on the wrong side and sewed with a stretch stitch down the color change between red and white, so on the right side, only the red showed.

After pintucking the fabric, I simply cut the fabric out using the size 12 version of the Roller Skate dress as though it was a flat piece of fabric (making sure I placed the one sleeve completely over the red pleated side,) with the only alteration being to drop the neckline a little, and cut the length off at her natural waist rather than doing the full dress length. (here’s a picture of what my pattern tracing looked like, you can see the old neck line, and then my newly drawn in neckline.)

The back was done eliminating the seam allowance for the back seam, and placing the pattern horizontally over the fold. After cutting out the front and back pieces, I sewed the shoulders and side seams together using my serger.

The neck band was just a 2″ strip sewn into a circle, folded in half, and sewn in place, while the sleeves were 4″ bands that I measured to the same width of the sleeve and sewed on the same way as the neck. (I used my coverstitch machine to topstitch the neck and sleeve bands down so that they would lie straight, but a twin needle in a regular machine would do the same thing).

Next I made the skirt by cutting 2 widths of fabric to length, sewing them together (being careful to match my stripes) and then curving the top edge into this shape…..

At this point I should have hemmed the skirt on the long straight side (I used a coverstitch machine, but a set of twin needles on a regular machine will work too) but in reality I did it once already on the dress, it is not as easy as it would have been had I done it first, so you can learn from my mistake! Next I sewed 2 rows of basting down the curved sides, and gathered the skirt into the waste of the dress, slightly overlapping the two short sides for the tulip effect. Next I sewed the skirt to the shirt.

Then I sewed a piece of elastic into a loop, that was the correct size for my daughter’s waist, and then pinned it over the waist seam, and sewed it down on the top and bottom edge of the elastic, stretching while I sewed it.

Here it is evenly gathered into the elastic waistband (at this point I hemmed the dress, because I hadn’t wanted to swap my thread cones over to a different machine earlier) Next I machine appliqued a star onto the shoulder of the dress, using 2 layers of the tulle, and a machine satin stitch to sew the edges down.

The pettiskirt is made from 4 layers of tulle; the 2 underneath layers are 17″ by the width of the fabric, and the two top layers are made by cutting 10 strips that were 5″ wide by the width of the tulle, 4 strips that were 7″ by the width of fabric, and 16 strips that were 3″ by the width of fabric. For each layer of the skirt I started by sewing 8 of the 3″ strips end to end, and then gathering them down the length on my pleater foot (I have a Bernina sewing machine with a pleater foot attachment) but 2 rows of basting that you gathered would work just fine! Then I sewed 4 of my 5″ strips end to end, and attached the 3″ ruffle to it, and then ran the 5″ layer through my pleater foot. Next came 2 7″ strips sewn end to end, and gathered after being attached to the top of the ruffle, and finally I gathered the 7″ layer and sewed it to the bottom of the single 5″ strip. so in other words, you build the skirt bottom up 8 widths, than 4 widths, than 2 widths, and finally 1 width of the fabric (so you are gathering with a 2 to 1 ration each time.) If you use a 1/2″ seam allowance your final gathered skirt piece will be 17″ long. Make a second one, and sew them each into tubes like you did the 2 single width pieces, and then put all your layers together and attach to an elastic waistband you have already sewn into a circle (I hope all of this makes sense, I was in a huge hurry to finish this dress, so wasn’t able to photograph the process, as I was a day away from flying out to the US for 11 days by myself to go to my sister’s baby shower and wouldn’t have my stuff or my model near me!) My finished length of skirt was 18″. (The pettiskirt could also be worn by itself giving a lot of versatility with only 2 pieces in the look!)
This dress sort of reminds me of something you would see on Pollyanna or an American Girl Doll for for a 4th of July pageant, and my Daughter LOVES it, and is ready to get her patriotism on and celebrate America’s birthday, (even though we live so far away from the USA.)
Thanks again for having me Emily and Ashley,
and I hope you all like my take on remixing the Roller Skate Dress for an older girl!!!  
*******************************************************
“Flip this Pattern” voting will begin tomorrow, Friday, July 19 and run through Sunday, July 21.
And, in the meantime, link up your “Flipped Pattern”
{there are only a few hours left….the linky party ends tonight at 11:00 PM CST}
and be inspired by others sewing along!



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17 Comments



cathgrace
10 yearss ago


Thanks again for having me!!!

(Reply)

SewBubble
10 yearss ago


So inventive!

(Reply)

sisforsewing
10 yearss ago


Very clever!
You did a great job!

(Reply)

Ajaire
10 yearss ago


Catherine, I love the pintucked section. It definitely makes you go back for a second look to see if that shoulder was color blocked. So smart. It’s great to see her so happy and proud to wear what her mama makes her :)

(Reply)

Mie Brindle
10 yearss ago


Oh Wow…she does it again 😉 AMAZING!!!

(Reply)

sallyavena
10 yearss ago


I agree with Ajaire, that pintucking is really something…so clever! This dress just looks so comfortable yet is truly something special! And it’s a great flip for an older girl.

(Reply)

carin van den berg
10 yearss ago


I love this. I also wanted to see how that shoulder is done. Fabulous.

(Reply)

nest full of eggs
10 yearss ago


Wonderful sewing as always Catherine. I have to agree about the pintucks ~ so clever and thanks for sharing how you did that. It fits her absolutely perfectly! She sure looks like she loves it, for sure!

(Reply)

Welcome to the Mouse House
10 yearss ago


I love it!!!!!!!!!!

(Reply)

Joy Candrian
10 yearss ago


At first glance, I thought you added a solid red to the shoulder, thanks for documenting the details on how to make this, so creative.

(Reply)

creativewarmth
10 yearss ago


Fantastic job! beautiful re-design and perfect fit.

(Reply)

pixidance
10 yearss ago


The pleating on the shoulder is absolutely brilliant!

(Reply)

Anne Weaver
10 yearss ago


Sigh… I think I’m in love!! I posted on Craft Gossip about your remix here:
http://sewing.craftgossip.com/tutorial-pleated-shoulder-roller-skate-dress-remix/2013/07/18/

–Anne

(Reply)

Frances Suzanne
10 yearss ago


Great job on the ‘tween’ version….and such a successful FLIP with a response like your child gave you :)! Thanks so much for adding your inspiration to the series….

(Reply)

Charity
10 yearss ago


What a FUN outfit! I love the pleating and the shape of the skirt.

(Reply)

An apprentice housewife
10 yearss ago


I love your pintucks shoulder. And the optional pettiskirt is so special!

(Reply)

cathgrace
10 yearss ago


Thanks so much everyone, you are all too kind!

(Reply)


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